Lochinver

21-24 October 2024

Six intrepid DHC hillwalkers booked for a Monday to Thursday 3-night stay at the AnCala hostel in Lochinver. October 20th saw storm Ashley sweeping across Scotland and the week ahead was forecast to be stormy, causing Chris to make a pre-emptive cancellation and leaving 5 to travel north on Monday. The windy weather blew away any ideas of ‘doing a hill on the way up’.

On arrival at the hostel, we were pleased to find that DHC were the only guests staying in the 12-person hostel, so we could use a second bedroom. The bunkhouse is modern and tidy, but no drying room, problems with leaking showers and the kitchen/dining/lounge area would be far too cramped if all 15 beds were in use.

Monday supper was mostly Gillie’s stew washed down with a stoop of John’s homebrew. There was stewed apples and custard followed by Graham’s bottle of Cockburns digestif.

Most of us settled into a deep sleep, apart from Graham who reported unnerving hallucinations throughout the wee hours. Graham blamed either the hallucinogenic hops in the homebrew beer or woodland mushrooms in Gillie’s stew. No more details here, the hallucinations may need a blog to themselves.

Tuesday

With a forecast of strong wind and showers, the five of us set off in two cars towards the south end of loch More, just south of Ben Stack. John & Graham tackled Meallan liath coire mhic Dhughaill. Great views of Ben Stack for most of the walk. Increasingly fierce winds and occasional sharp showers that were painful on the face meant the Corbett was beyond our reach. Ski goggles were certainly useful. After a lunch sheltered behind a large erratic, the decision was made to retrace steps back to the car. Although the Corbett was not bagged, we still ticked off 1 toad, 4 large white birds similar to geese, 1 stag and 1 carbon-neutral stalker in a 4x4.

Meanwhile, Sandy, Gillie and Alan set off to climb two Grahams, Carn an Toinail (759m) and Beinn Direach (688m), north of Ben Hee. Visibility was good except when a shower blew through, but the wind was fierce. Gillie and Alan relinquished the summits, leaving Sandy to bravely bag the two tops, although he was blown over on the descent. Everyone returned red faced and weather beaten. Sandy celebrated his two Grahams with an out of date can of Stella and generously shared chunks of his excellent fruit cake.

Dinner at Peets Seafood Restaurant was very civilised to begin with. However, after Alan and Gillie ordered aperitifs of wine and crisps, the modest bowls filled with sliced and deep-fried potatoes were targeted by nearby gannets, who fought impolitely over the crisps like hungry hillwalkers.

Wednesday

With a windy and overcast but improving forecast, Graham headed home via a look at Carn Beag and birding at the Cabrach, after generously donating his ½ bottle of Cockburns to a greater cause. John ventured up Suilven, a 21k round trip from the walkers carpark just east of Lochinver. Heavy cloud cover lifted during the long walk in giving good views, and the strong wind was from the southwest, so that the steep climb to the bealach at 600m was sheltered. However, clouds returned on cue, so that the 300m ridge walk to the misty summit included a gusty wind and light showers. Two narrow sections with big drops on both sides felt safer to use a crouched primate posture to hold onto the turf in the gusty wind, especially with nobody watching the elegant traverses. After safely descending, the clouds lifted on cue, giving retreating views of Suilven and Canisp for the return walk.

Alan, Gillie and Sandy walked on Auchmelvich beach, had a drive on the coastal road and a less windy walk up Gleann Learaig as far as Loch an Leothaid, with good views of the western flank of Quinag. A young badger was seen in the bracken. Even at low levels the wind was still strong and gusty.

Thursday

Windy but dry, Alan, Gillie and Sandy visited Chanonry Point, where pods of dolphins often play, but apparently not on Thursdays in October. John drove over to Ben Klibreck to bag his 140’th Munro. The wind was still strong, but the cloud was high, no hint of rain and sunshine breaking through. The first 2k climb was boggy, and the final 200m to the summit might have won the windiest walk of the week, but 2 walking poles were a big benefit to safely getting up and back down.